In this post, I’ll walk you through how to dig up, clean, and store dahlia tubers, and I’ll also share a free printable flower tag template you can use to keep track of your varieties.

Step 1: Wait for Frost

The first step is timing. Dahlias are ready to dig once the frost has blackened their foliage. This signals the plant to go dormant, and the tubers will be mature enough to store.

Step 2: Cut Back and Dig Carefully

• Cut the stems back to about 6 inches above the soil.

• Use a garden fork or spade to gently loosen the soil around the clump.

• Lift the entire clump carefully — dahlia tubers can snap easily, and damaged tubers don’t store well.

Step 3: Clean and Cure

• Shake off excess soil and gently rinse the tubers.

• Let them air dry in a cool, shaded spot for a day or two.

• Be sure each clump has a piece of the crown attached (this is where next year’s sprouts will emerge).

Step 4: Label Your Tubers

This is where many gardeners run into trouble. Once clumps are out of the ground, it’s easy to forget which variety is which!

To help you keep track, I’ve created a free printable dahlia tag template. You can write the variety name, bloom color, and any notes — then attach it to the clump before storage.

👉 [Download the Dahlia Tuber Tag Template here] .

Step 5: Store for Winter

Dahlia tubers need to be kept cool, but not frozen, through winter. The ideal range is 40–50°F in a dark, dry space. Some options:

• Cardboard boxes filled with peat moss, wood shavings, or vermiculite.

• Paper bags for smaller collections.

Check tubers once a month — remove any that look soft or moldy.

Step 6: Replant in Spring

Once the soil warms in spring, bring out your tubers, divide clumps if needed, and plant them back into the garden. With good care, they’ll reward you with bigger and better blooms each season.

Grab Your Free Dahlia Tuber Tag

Keep your garden organized and stress-free by labeling your dahlias right away. Download your free template below, print as many as you need, and never lose track of your favorite varieties again.

Final Tip: Saving dahlias is part science, part art. Don’t worry if you lose a few tubers your first year — with practice, you’ll get the hang of it, and soon your dahlias will multiply enough to share with friends!

🌸 Download the Free Dahlia Tag Template

September marks the gentle shift from summer’s heat to fall’s cooler rhythms. For gardeners, it’s a month filled with possibilities—planting cool-weather crops, refreshing beds with flowers, and laying the groundwork for a successful season ahead. With the right approach, your garden can remain productive and beautiful well into the colder months.

Plant Cool-Season Vegetables

Fall is prime time for crops that thrive in cooler weather. Many of these vegetables not only tolerate chilly nights but actually develop better flavor after a light frost. Here’s what to consider:

• Leafy Greens (Spinach, Lettuce, Kale, Swiss Chard): These quick growers mature in 40–70 days depending on the variety. You can often harvest baby leaves in as little as 25–30 days. Kale and chard are especially cold-hardy and keep producing after frosts.

• Root Vegetables (Beets, Radishes, Carrots): Radishes are the fastest at just 25–30 days, while carrots and beets take closer to 60–75 days. Both carrots and beets get sweeter as the weather cools.

• Brassicas (Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage): These nutrient-rich vegetables need a bit more time, often 60–90 days to mature. Early September planting gives them the cool conditions they love.

• Herbs (Cilantro, Parsley): Cilantro matures in about 40–50 days, parsley in 70–90. Both thrive in cooler temperatures and can often be harvested well into late fall.

Pro Tip: Use row covers or cold frames to extend your harvest and protect young seedlings from unexpected early frosts.

Fall gardening doesn’t have to be overwhelming — in fact, September is one of the best months to refresh your beds and extend your harvest. Below you’ll find my quick-glance guide to what you can plant this month, along with how long each crop takes to reach maturity. This way, you can plan your fall garden with confidence.

👉 Keep reading through the suggestions, then scroll down to the infographic for a handy visual you can save or pin for later.

Here’s a simple September planting infographic that breaks down vegetables, herbs, and flowers you can still get into the ground this month — plus how long they take to mature.

Add Fall-Flowering Annuals and Perennials

Your garden doesn’t have to fade when summer ends. Refresh beds and containers with flowers that bloom beautifully in the fall:

• Snapdragons and Pansies: Cool-weather annuals that bloom in about 60–80 days. Planting now ensures a colorful display that lasts into fall and sometimes returns in spring.

• Chrysanthemums, Asters, and Sedums: Long-lasting perennials that provide vibrant autumn color and attract late-season pollinators.

• Ornamental Grasses: While not grown for blooms, their plumes and textures add drama and movement into the colder months.

Harvest and Preserve Summer Crops

September often brings an overlap of summer and fall harvests.

• Tomatoes and Peppers: Usually 60–90 days to mature from transplanting. Keep picking regularly to encourage production until frost.

• Cucumbers and Beans: Ready in about 50–70 days. Frequent harvesting keeps plants productive and prevents overripening.

• Onions, Garlic, and Potatoes: These longer-season crops (70–120+ days) should be pulled, cured, and stored for winter use. Garlic planted in September won’t be harvested until next summer.

• Herbs: Basil (50–60 days) should be gathered before frost, while hardy herbs like parsley and oregano can keep going into the cold.

Prep Garden Beds for Fall and Winter

Good garden health next year starts with smart prep this fall. September is a perfect month to tackle soil care and cleanup.

• Remove spent plants to prevent pests and diseases.

• Add compost, aged manure, or leaf mold to replenish nutrients.

• Mulch to regulate soil and protect perennials.

• Plant cover crops like clover or rye to enrich soil for spring.

Divide and Transplant Perennials

Cooler temperatures and consistent moisture make September ideal for dividing perennials that have outgrown their space. Plants like daylilies, hostas, and irises benefit from division every few years, and newly split clumps settle in quickly before winter dormancy. Shrubs and young trees can also be transplanted this month for strong root establishment.

Final Thoughts

September is a gardener’s golden month—rich in harvests, yet full of opportunities to prepare for the seasons ahead. Whether you’re sowing kale and carrots, planting snapdragons for fall color, or dividing your favorite perennials, the work you do now ensures your garden stays productive and beautiful well beyond summer.

***Want some pro tips on using a root cellar to store your gardens bounty? Check out this article to learn more!***

There’s something magical about a warm, homemade flour tortilla—soft, slightly chewy, and just the right amount of toasty. If you've only ever had store-bought tortillas, you're in for a treat. And the best part? You don’t need fancy equipment—just a cast iron skillet, a few pantry staples, and about 30 minutes.

Whether you’re making tacos, quesadillas, or just want to enjoy them fresh off the pan, this easy flour tortilla recipe delivers authentic, homemade goodness every time.

Ingredients You'll Need

🍽 Get Downloadable Recipe Card Here!

Tools You'll Need

• Cast iron skillet or griddle

• Mixing bowl

• Rolling pin or cast iron tortilla press

• Measuring cups/spoons

• Clean kitchen towel or tortilla warmer

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Mix the Dough

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the oil (or butter) and mix with your hands or a fork until crumbly.

Gradually pour in the warm water while stirring until a soft dough forms. 

2. Knead & Rest

Knead the dough on a floured surface for about 3–5 minutes until smooth and elastic. Then cover it with a damp towel or plastic wrap and let it rest for 20 minutes. This helps the gluten relax and makes the tortillas easier to roll.

3. Divide & Roll

Divide the dough into 10–12 equal balls. On a lightly floured surface, roll each one into a thin circle (about 6–8 inches in diameter) or if you have a cast iron tortilla press, press until desired thickness. Don’t worry if they’re not perfect!

4. Heat Your Cast Iron

Place your cast iron skillet over medium heat. Let it heat thoroughly—it should be hot but not smoking.

5. Cook the Tortillas

Lay one tortilla in the skillet. Cook for 30–45 seconds until bubbles form and the bottom gets light golden-brown spots. Flip and cook another 30 seconds.

Remove and place in a tortilla warmer or under a clean kitchen towel to stay soft and warm. Repeat with the rest.

Tips for Perfect Cast Iron Tortillas

• Don’t overcook—overcooked tortillas become crispy instead of soft.

• If your tortillas are too thick, roll thinner next time.

• Cast iron retains heat, so adjust the temperature as you go to prevent burning.

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Serving Ideas

• Wrap around grilled chicken, steak, or veggies for tacos.

• Spread with butter and cinnamon sugar for a quick treat.

• Use as a base for homemade quesadillas or tortilla chips.

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Storage & Reheating

Store cooled tortillas in an airtight bag at room temp for up to 2 days or refrigerate for 5–6 days. Reheat on the skillet or microwave wrapped in a damp towel.

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Final Thoughts

Making flour tortillas from scratch isn’t just easy—it’s addictive. Once you taste the warm, toasty results fresh off your cast iron skillet, you’ll wonder why you ever settled for store-bought. Give it a try and let your kitchen fill with the smell of homemade comfort.

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Have you tried making tortillas at home? Drop your favorite add-ins or tips in the comments below! 

1. Choose the Right Location

Icelandic Poppies thrive in full sunlight, so choose a spot in your garden that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. They prefer well-drained soil, so avoid areas where water tends to pool. You can grow them in flower beds, borders, or even containers, as long as there’s plenty of sunlight.

2. Prepare the Soil

Before sowing your seeds, it’s important to prepare the soil. Icelandic Poppies don’t like heavy, clay soil. If your soil is dense, you can improve it by mixing in some organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure to help with drainage.

Lightly rake the soil to create a fine seedbed, making it easy for the tiny seeds to make contact with the soil.

3. Sowing the Seeds

Icelandic Poppy seeds are tiny, so be careful when handling them. You can sow them directly outdoors or start them indoors to get a head start on the growing season.

Outdoor Sowing (Direct Seeding):

• Timing: In most regions, it's best to sow Icelandic Poppy seeds in early spring, about 4-6 weeks before the last expected frost. These poppies can also be direct-sown in the fall, where they will undergo natural cold stratification over the winter and germinate in early spring.
• How to Sow: Sprinkle the seeds evenly over the soil. They need light to germinate, so don't bury them too deeply. Gently press the seeds into the soil with a flat board or your hands, or lightly rake the surface to make sure the seeds make good contact with the soil. Keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Indoor Sowing (Starting Seeds Indoors):

• Timing: Start your seeds indoors about 8-10 weeks before your last expected frost.
• How to Sow: Fill seed trays with a light, well-draining seed starting mix. Sprinkle the seeds evenly over the surface and press them down gently. Don’t cover the seeds with soil. Keep the trays in a cool location (around 60-65°F) and ensure the soil stays moist but not waterlogged.
• Germination: Poppy seeds generally take about 10-14 days to germinate. Once the seedlings are big enough to handle, you can transplant them outdoors after the last frost.

4. Watering and Care

Once your seeds have been sown, make sure to keep the soil moist, especially during the germination period. Be careful not to overwater, as poppies don’t like soggy soil. Once the plants have established themselves, they’re relatively drought-tolerant, but regular watering will encourage better growth and more flowers.

5. Thinning and Transplanting

If you’ve sown seeds directly outdoors, you may need to thin the seedlings to give them enough space to grow. Aim for spacing of about 6-8 inches between each plant. If you started your seeds indoors, transplant the seedlings outdoors once they have several sets of true leaves and are big enough to handle. Be sure to harden off your seedlings by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions for about a week before transplanting them into the garden.

6. Fertilizing

Icelandic Poppies aren’t heavy feeders, but a light application of fertilizer can encourage healthy growth. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer and apply it once a month during the growing season. Be sure not to over-fertilize, as too much nitrogen can result in lots of leafy growth but fewer flowers.

7. Dealing with Pests and Problems

Icelandic Poppies are generally quite hardy, but they can occasionally face problems like aphids or mildew. If you spot any pests, remove them by hand or treat with insecticidal soap. If mildew becomes an issue, ensure good air circulation around the plants and avoid overhead watering to keep the leaves dry.

8. Enjoy the Blooms!

After a few months of care, your Icelandic Poppies will reward you with stunning, colorful flowers! They usually bloom in late spring to early summer and can last for several weeks, adding a pop of color to your garden.

Tips for Success:

• Icelandic Poppies are perennial in mild climates but are often grown as annuals in colder regions.
• They self-seed easily, so you may see new plants popping up each year, especially if you leave the flowers to go to seed.
• Icelandic Poppies are sensitive to high heat and humidity, so they do best in cooler climates or areas with mild summers.

By following these simple steps, you’ll be well on your way to growing beautiful Icelandic Poppies that will add a splash of color and charm to your garden year after year. Happy planting!

Why You'll Love This Gingerbread Cookie Recipe

• Classic flavor: A perfect balance of molasses, ginger, cinnamon, and cloves.

• Soft & chewy texture: These cookies are tender on the inside with just the right amount of snap on the edges.

• Easy to decorate: The dough holds its shape well when baked, making it ideal for creating fun and festive shapes, from gingerbread men to intricate snowflakes.

• Great for gifting: Gingerbread cookies make lovely homemade gifts—especially when decorated with royal icing and colorful sprinkles!

Ingredients You'll Need:

3 ¼ cups all-purpose flour

1 tsp baking soda

1 tbsp ground ginger

1 tsp ground cinnamon

½ tsp ground cloves

¼ tsp ground nutmeg

½ tsp salt

¾ cup unsalted butter, softened

1 cup dark brown sugar, packed

1 large egg

1 cup unsulfured molasses

1 tsp vanilla extract

Instructions:

How to Decorate Your Gingerbread Cookies

Decorating gingerbread cookies is half the fun! You can use royal icing, which hardens nicely and creates beautiful, intricate designs, or simple powdered sugar glaze for a more casual look. Here’s a quick recipe for royal icing:

Royal Icing Recipe:

1 egg white (or 2 tbsp powdered egg whites)

1 ½ cups powdered sugar

½ tsp lemon juice (optional)

Instructions:

What You Need to Start

• Grapevine (amount varies depending on size of desired basket)
• Sharpened Hand Snips/Shears
• Work/Gardening Gloves - (optional)
• Tub/Basin of warm water

Basket Weaving Video Tutorial

Step 1: Create The Grid

In a spiral fashion, take a long, flexible, thinner piece of grapevine, and starting at the center cross section, going over and under alternately, make your way from the center cross section of the grid going outwards. 

Step 4: Build Up Your Basket Walls

Keep wrapping around and around and in the over-under alternating fashion. Push the frame upwards as your weave, to form the basket's walls. 

Step 5: Wrap & Fill

Keep adding more vines if your original strand runs out. Weave in alternating in the same fashion of under-over, to fill in any gaps.

Step 6: Bend Down Frame Ends

Take any of the original vine frame ends from the grid you started with, bend them over, and weave them into the top sides of the basket to form an edge. 

Step 7: Add a Handle

Find a nice thick portion of grapevine, and taking two strands, twist them together to make one handle. Tuck one end in one side of your baskets weave, and tuck the other straight across on the opposite side in the same way. 

You're done! It's ok if it doesn't look absolutely perfect, your basket's true beauty is found in its uniqueness and the fact that you made it yourself!